Acne, medically known as Acne Vulgaris,
is a skin disease that involves the oil glands at the base of hair follicles.
It commonly occurs during puberty when the sebaceous (oil) glands come to life
- the glands are stimulated by male hormones produced by the adrenal glands of
both males and females.
Acne is not dangerous, but can leave skin scars. Human skin has
pores (tiny holes) which connect to oil glands located under the skin. The
glands are connected to the pores via follicles - small canals. These glands
produce Sebum, an oily liquid. The sebum carries dead skin cells through the
follicles to the surface of the skin. A small hair grows through the follicle
out of the skin. Pimples grow when
these follicles get blocked, resulting in an accumulation of oil under the
skin.
What is acne?
The word acne comes from the word acme meaning
"the highest point," which comes from the Greek akme meaning
"point" or "spot" - it was originally misspelt, with an 'n'
rather than an 'm' in 1835
In humans, pimples tend to appear on the face, back,
chest, shoulders and neck.
Simply put - skin cells, sebum and hair can clump together
into a plug, this plug gets infected with bacteria, resulting in a swelling. A
pimple starts to develop when the plug begins to break down.
Scientists from the Washington University School of Medicine
found that there are good and bad strains
of bacteria that determine the severity and frequency of developing acne. They explained in the Journal of Investigative
Dermatology (March 2013 issue) that not all acne bacteria trigger
pimples - in fact, one strain they identified can help keep the skin
pimple-free.
How common is acne?
Dermatologists (skin specialists) say that approximately
three-quarters of 11 to 30 year-olds will get acne at some time. Acne can
affect people of all races and all ages. It most commonly affects adolescents
and young adults, although there are people in their fifties who still get
acne. According to Brown University, USA, approximately 17 million Americans
are estimated to have acne at any one time.
Although acne affects both men and women, young men suffer from
acne for longer - probably because testosterone, which is present in higher
quantities in young men, can make acne worse.
The types of pimples
§ Whiteheads - remain
under the skin and are very small
§ Blackheads - clearly
visible, they are black and appear on the surface of the skin. Remember that a
blackhead is not caused by dirt. Scrubbing your face vigorously when you see
blackheads will not help
§ Papules - visible on
the surface of the skin. They are small bumps, usually pink
§ Pustules - clearly visible
on the surface of the skin. They are red at their base and have pus at the top
§ Nobules - clearly
visible on the surface of the skin. They are large, solid pimples. They are
painful and are embedded deep in the skin
§ Cysts - clearly
visible on the surface of the skin. They are painful, and are filled with pus.
Cysts can easily cause scars.
What causes acne?
§
Nobody is completely sure what causes
acne. Experts believe the primary cause is a rise in androgen levels - androgen
is a type of hormone. Androgen levels rise when a human becomes an adolescent.
Rising androgen levels make the oil glands under your skin grow; the enlarged
gland produces more oil. Excessive sebum can break down cellular walls in your
pores, causing bacteria to grow.
§
Some studies indicate that a
susceptibility to acne could also be genetic. Some medications that contain
androgen and lithium may cause acne. Greasy cosmetics may cause acne in some
susceptible people. Hormone changes during pregnancy may cause acne either to
develop for the first time, or to recur.
Treatment of acne
Method 1: Treating at Home
1. Wash your face twice daily with a pH balanced cleanser of 5&1/2.
The first step to getting clear skin is to set up a regimented cleansing routine to restore the skin's acid mantle and thus discourage acne vulgaris
growth. Buckle down and force yourself to wash your face with a pH balanced
cleanser of 5.5 when you wake up in the morning and before going to bed at
night. As tired or busy as you may be, taking the extra few minutes to cleanse
your skin, this will reduce your acne significantly.
If you
have acne on other parts of your body such as your shoulders, back, and chest,
give these areas a scrubbing twice daily as well.
If you
wear makeup, never go to bed without washing it all off. Sleeping with makeup on
is a surefire way to increase your pimple-count and make getting rid of your
acne even more difficult. Use an oil-free makeup remover prior to washing with
your regular cleanser to make sure all traces have been removed.
2.
Wash your face using
oils.
Known as the Oil Cleansing Method (OCM), this is a popular method of cleansing in Asia, and is a growing trend. OCM is an alternative
cleansing method that is gentler for skin, and of interest for sensitive skin
types. Look into oils
such as olive oil, grape seed oil, and coconut oil, castor oil,
and emu oil.
3. Apply essential oils to active pimples.
Neem oil
and tea tree oil are thought to have antimicrobial properties that can kill
acne-causing bacteria. Dab a drop of diluted version of tea tree oil or neem
oil on each spot, or wet a cotton swab and wipe it over problem areas. Tea tree oil is an
antibacterial agent that can help clear out
the microbes clogging your skin. Avoid using undiluted tea tree oil —
it'll burn your skin, and worsen acne. Read the warning label on the bottle.
4. Use products with benzoyl peroxide.
You can use benzoyl peroxide in the form of
either a soap or lotion over your acne-prone areas. This product works to clean
off dead skin and help your skin to regenerate new, clean cells faster. Look
for products that contain 3% or less of benzoyl peroxide to avoid irritating
your skin.
5. Use sulfur-containing clay masks.
Although we don’t know exactly why sulfur works
as a great acne-killer, we do know that it does work. Look for products that
contain sulfur to clear up your acne, seemingly by reducing oil production.
6. Use a toner after cleansing.
After you wash your face, exfoliate, or apply a
face mask, apply a toner to the entirety of your face. Toners work to tighten
pores making it less likely that dirt and oil will become trapped in them. Buy
acne toners at a local drugstore, or use witch hazel or apple cider vinegar
dabbed on with a cotton ball. Don’t rinse toners after application - allow them
to stay on your skin.
7. Always apply a moisturizer.
Oily
skin produces acne, and if your skin is very dry your body will compensate by
creating sebum. To prevent this from happening, use a gentle moisturizer after
you wash your face every morning and evening. Apply moisturizer post toner
application.
8.
Find products containing azelaic acid.
Azelaic
acid is an antibacterial that also helps to reduce redness and inflammation and
is found naturally in wheat and barley. If your acne tends to leave dark marks
on your skin, try a product that uses azelaic acid to clean your pores and
reduce acne-produced dark spots.
9. Use a sheet or face mask.
Sheet or
Face masks contain compounds that soothe your skin and kill bacteria. Using a
sheet or face mask 2-3 times a week for 15-20 minutes to dry out your skin and
clean out your pores. Buy face masks from your local beauty supply or
drugstore, or make your own at home. - Create a blend of cucumbers and oatmeal. The cucumbers help to reduce redness and fight off dark spots while the oatmeal soften and soothes irritated skin. Blend the two together in a food processor until it forms a paste, and then apply it to your skin for 15-20 minutes before washing off with warm water.
Method 2: Treating
at a Dermatologist’s or Spa
1.
Get a facial
These are available at
most spas, and involve
the use of several
different cleansers, masks, and extraction tools to reduce acne on your face.
If you don’t feel comfortable with having an esthetician work on your face,
visit your dermatologist for a more medically-oriented facial.
2.
Get a facial peel.
A facial peel is
a specialized gel containing acid that dissolves dead skin and bacteria cells.
Getting these on a regular basis can greatly reduce acne over time in addition
to your regular skincare regimen.
3.
Try microdermabrasion.
This is a
process by which your skin is “sanded” away to produce new skin growth. Getting
microdermabrasion treatments once a week over several months is the most
effective route to take, as each treatment only affects the outermost layer of
skin.
4.
Get a laser treatment.
That’s right -
use layers to kill off your acne. Many dermatologists now offer a treatment in
which they use lasers to fire strong blasts of light to kill overactive
oil-producing glands beneath your skin. This process can be painful, but has
been shown to cut down acne 50% on average.
5. Try a
light treatment.
Method 3: Treating Acne with
Lifestyle Changes
1. Exercise regularly
Exercising does a number of
things to help reduce your acne. It releases endorphins which lower stress
levels and therefore reduce oil-production, and also makes you sweat which cleans
out dead skin cells. Try exercising on a daily basis for a minimum of thirty
minutes to help reduce your acne not only on your face, but also on your chest,
shoulders, and back
2. Don’t touch your face
This is incredibly difficult, as people are prone to touching their faces on a regular basis. Be careful about scratching your face, resting your
face on your hands, and picking at pimples. Never pop your zits or squeeze at
pesky blackheads, as this only introduces more bacteria to your skin and will make
your acne worse.
3. Shower often.
4. Eat
healthily.
Foods that are highly processed
and contain a lot of oils greatly increase the amount of acne on your body.
Getting the proper amount of nutrients from whole grains, fruits, vegetables,
and protein help your skin to regenerate faster and limit unnecessary oil
production. When at all possible, avoid foods that are processed or contain a lot
of sugar (think junk foods)
5.Get at least eight hours of sleep.
Sleeping kills two birds with one stone, as it helps to relax your body as well as detoxify it. If you aren’t getting enough sleep, chances are
your skin hasn’t had the time or ability to renew its skin cells. Regulate your
sleep cycle by going to bed at a consistent time every night and sleeping for a
minimum of eight hours.
6.Drink lots of water.
Although we’ve
all heard to drink eight glasses of water a day, there isn’t a set amount on
how much water you should consume. Water helps to detoxify your body and purify
your skin, so make sure you drink water often throughout the day.
7. Relax your body and mind.
High stress levels lead to
increased sebum production, so do your mind and your skin a favor by giving yourself some time to relax. Try taking a bath, reading a book, meditating, or
practicing yoga and watch your skin transform in response.
8. Wash your fabrics.
Any fabric that comes into contact with your skin on a regular basis -
clothes, towels, pillowcases, and sheets - should be washed at least once a
week to remove oil and bacteria that build up over time. Use a gentle cleanser
for sensitive skin to help solve your acne problem.
9.Use oil-free makeup.
If you wear makeup, you may be stuck in a
vicious cycle of covering up acne while simultaneously causing it with your
cover-up usage. Find acne-fighting oil-free mineral makeup to help prevent
worsening your acne while simply trying to hide it. Power foundations are also
recommended. When possible, avoid wearing makeup at all though as it clogs your
pores over the course of the day.
- • Regularly clean makeup brushes to prevent bacterial growth.
10.Wear sunscreen everyday and do not
tan.
Ultraviolet Radiation is the number one cause
of premature aging. It also leads to Skin Cancer in high enough doses. Treat
the sun like the death ray that it is. Exposing your skin to harmful UVA and
UVB rays damages skin and prolongs post inflammatory erythema (PIE)--red acne
marks, as the sunlight stimulates pigment-producing cells.- • Not only can the sun prolong PIE appearance, it can lead to premature aging including sun spots, fine lines and wrinkles. UV damage is DNA damage. Sunscreen is an anti-aging must for all ages young and old--preventing future skin cancer. It is the fountain of youth in a bottle. Prevention is better than treatment. There is no such thing as safe tanning but there is sun damage. Therefore, it is very important that you wear sunscreen every day, with an SPF of 30.Of note, after SPF 30, there are decreasing marginal returns in UVB protection. The % of UVB protection as a function of SPF Value is a log graph and plateaus after SPF 30. Therefore, there is not much difference in protection between SPF 40 and 50. Sunscreens with a SPF 100 are banned in some countries.
- • For UVA protection, a sunscreen with a high UVA protection of PA+++ or higher of PA++++ as recommended, especially to treat PIE. PPD is the UVA equivalent of SPF; use a sunscreen with a minimum of PPD20. The PA+ system has a + that corresponds to a tier of PPD protection. Of note, different countries use different PA systems. Japan, and Taiwan changed their PA system to a 4+ tier system while Korea uses a 3+ tier system.
- • When out in the sun for long periods of time, stick to the shade as much as possible and wear a wide-brimmed hat and light, long-sleeved clothing. Wear sunglasses, especially those that have less melanin in their eyes. Consider carrying a parasol. In Asia, they are a popular fashionable accessory.
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